Wine 7 min

Natural Wine

On hippie juice, terroir, and a bottle of Sicilian rosé that had no business being delicious

My dissatisfaction with the dark corners of wine extends in all directions. I am just as unimpressed by the corporate cancer juice as I am by the cloudy, re-fermenting, terroir-less concoction I call hippie juice. And yet.

I took home a bottle of wine by Frank Cornelissen. A thirty-one dollar bottle of the cloudiest, funkiest hippie juice the world has ever seen — and a rosé, on top of it. There is no reason this wine should be any good. It is a wreck. It has every flaw imaginable. It was absolutely delicious. I could not stop drinking it.

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